Making sure you have a good emergency kit

Expect the unexpected. One of the best ways to be prepared for the unexpected is to have a good emergency kit.

Once I did a planned afternoon motorcycle ride which unfortunately turned into an unplanned overnight trip. I didn't have any shelter, no way to make a fire, and no first-aid kit. Dumb, dumb, dumb. We were forced to spend the night in the woods with only what we had with us - jackets and cell phone. We did exceptionally well overnight and luckily had no issues, but NEVER AGAIN. No, not that we might spend the night out unplanned, but never again will I be so unprepared.

Emergency kits are available to purchase but I found they often have items that are not necessary such as fishing line and fish hooks, hand warmers, or gloves.  They also often cost a lot for what you get ($20-$40). I found that building your own emergency kit is easy to do, inexpensive, and will give you peace of mind because it is customized for you. For me an emergency kit must include some shelter - a way to keep your body warm either from the air or from the ground; must have a way to make a fire and some way to treat minor injuries and inconveniences. It should have enough to help you survive 24 hours until you can get help.

I have two emergency kits. One for off-road riding and another for road riding. They're pretty much the same. My off-road kit includes the following:

• Flashlight/cyalume nightstick and whistle (all in one)
• Space blanket (can be used for shelter or ground insulation)
• Matches - both waterproof and regular
• Nylon string (about 10-12')
• Polyester string (about 6' - can be used to cut small branches)
• Black electrical tape (portion of a roll - not a full roll)
• Medical adhesive tape (portion of a roll - not a full roll)
• Wet wipes (6)
• Insect repellent
• Buck knife (small 2" blade)
• Anti-itch cream (partially filled tube)
• Antibiotic cream (partially filled tube)
• Toilet paper (partial roll)
• Band-Aids (3 large and 5 regular)
• Antiseptic wipes (6)
• Fire starter (4)

All of the above fits into a 3"x9" tube which is easy to pack and carry. It doesn't take up much space but offers a lot of emergency functionality. That is, I can set up a shelter, make a fire, and treat minor scratches and scrapes. The tube can also be a container to hold water.

My road emergency kit includes the following:

• Garbage bags (one large, one small - can be used as a poncho or ground insulation)
• Cyalume nightsticks (4 - 3 green and 1 orange)
• Kleenex tissues (Pocket pack, can be used for a wound)
• Anti-itch cream
• Antibiotic cream
• Space blanket (2)
• Insect repellent
• Wet wipes (6)
• Antiseptic wipes (16)
• Emergency flasher & whistle
• Braided nylon line (25' of 3/16")
• Matches (waterproof)
• Lighter
• Fire starter (4)
• Tin foil (heavy duty, 12"x12")

The above items all fit into a 6"x12" zippered nylon bag.  This bag is a bit different since it is a "road trip" bag and would be used near or by the road in case of an emergency. Again, the kit has enough to build a shelter, insulate a person from the ground and make a fire. A separate First-Aid kit would accompany this emergency kit that would allow for treating minor injuries.

The First-Aid kit (in a bright yellow hard case 5"x8"x1.5") contains the following items:

• Elastic bandage (for wrapping wounds and holding gauze in place)
• Adhesive tape
• Triangular bandage (for making a sling if needed)
• 4"x4" gauze pads (4)
• 12 Tylenol (to ease pain)
• 12 Advil (to ease swelling)
• Antiseptic wipes (6 - 3 green soap wipes and 3 alcohol/disinfectant wipes)
• Antacid pills (4)
• Band-Aids (4 large, 9 regular, 6 butterfly)
• Salt pills (4)
• Aspirin

My emergency kits and First-Aid kit

When building your emergency kit take into account your destination and environment as well as your needs. Since this year's DBR is going to the desert I included salt pills. I hate bug bites that itch and hat being bothered by bugs so that's why both kits have an anti-itch and insect repellent in them. Commercial kits often include emergency water. I plan on having plenty of water with me at all times by having water bottles and a 1 gallon water jug.

Having an emergency kit is like having some insurance. You hope you never have to use it but it's there if you need it.

Why I Ride?

Hmm? Why do I ride? It should be easy to answer but it is not. Let me try...

Honda CL175

I started riding motorcycles back in 1972 on a Honda CL175 Scrambler. It was then I discovered the thrill of motorcycling. I bought it new and it provided me plenty of experiences and local adventures. I learned to ride paved roads and on gravel with it. None of my other friends owned motorcycles so I made a lot of solo adventures. I never ventured too far except to the ocean (Westport), Mt. Rainier, and around Puget Sound. It was a great first bike.

The crazy fast and nimble Kawasaki H2 750

My second motorcycle, the Kawasaki H2 750 provided me with my first long distance adventures - riding to and from home and WSU, around Washington state, returning from Arizona, and through British Columbia, Canada. It was a fast machine and not really suited for long distance touring. I did crazy stuff with it, like dragging the foot pegs through the corners on the twisty Paradise Road in Mt. Rainier National Park; riding over Snoqualmie Pass in the snow; going 100+ miles per hour; and on one trip passing over 100 cars in 100 miles. I loved the acceleration and nimble handling. It fed and satisfied that youthful false and stupid feeling of invincibility.

However, the desire to explore beyond the paved road lead me to sell the H2 750 and go for a more sedate Honda XL250. This machine took me beyond the pavement to the gravel back roads of SW Washington and Eastern Washington. Camping, fishing and trail riding were the new adventures. I went places cars or trucks couldn't go. But motorcycling is a solo sport and having a new family meant that motorcycling was, for the time being, incompatible with a family. So I sold the bike and bought a boat.

Times change but deep instilled desires and memories don't always go away. I missed the thrill and the feelings that motorcycling evoked within me - wind in your face, being in the elements, and adventure. The opportunity presented itself to return to motorcycling. Unfortunately the youthful fitness, strength, and agility were not what they used to be after 20 years. I had to relearn motorcycling. It was not as easy as I thought. I found that I had to exercise and retrain my mind and body. I learned through mistakes - fortunately nothing too bad or injurious - to ride again. And, once again I discovered why I ride. I couldn't make up my mind on what type of riding - off road or touring. So I bought two motorcycles - 2013 BMW F800GS and 2006 BMW R1200RT. Both are vastly different riding experiences but they each satisfy my desires and give me the thrills I'm looking for - albeit tempered from my youthful days.

The question still remains, so why do I ride? I suppose it is three things - the experience, the adventure, and the thrill.

• The experience. Nothing like motorcycling offers a greater view of the world, to smell the air, feel the temperature differences, hear the different sounds around you, and feel the wind on your face. When motorcycling you are out in the elements - you are part of it. It's an activity that totally involves you both physically and mentally. It's an intense skill that is much more involved than driving a car. When driving a car you don't need the balance and coordination like you would driving a motorcycle. Motorcyclists call driving a car riding in a cage. I agree.
• The adventure. I'm an adventurer and always looking for an adventure. As I said in a previous blog post, motorcycling is akin to two wheeled backpacking. You are limited in what you can carry on a motorcycle. You can pack a lot of stuff in a car or truck. Then to camp in some distant place is exciting and provides a sense of accomplishment. Because of the experience you feel you become part of the adventure. Anybody can go camping in a car, but with a motorcycle? Now that's special.
• The thrill. Motorcyclists face a 33 times greater chance of dying riding a motorcycle versus driving a car. Wow! That's a big risk. Every time I swing my leg over the seat, grab the handlebars, and start it up I recognize that risk. It makes me much more aware and in tune with my bike and being on the road with others. I know pavement is hard and it hurts when you hit it unexpectedly. However, the pleasure outweighs the risk. It's an intellectual high for me that I've got to focus my mind and body on riding and the conditions around me. May sound silly, but I feel alive. Besides scuba diving there's not too many other things that give me that pleasure/risk feeling.

Motorcycling is cheaper than boating. You can travel farther on a gallon of fuel and you don't have the maintenance costs of time and money. I find that it's a cheap form of entertainment to experience the world around me. Every trip whether to the store or gym or a long multi-day ride is an adventure. As with boating I suffer from the sailor's dilemma - "can't wait to leave home but then can't wait to get back home." I love to go on an motorcycle ride or adventure and when I get home I enjoy a deep sense of satisfaction thinking I accomplished something albeit most of the time it's pretty trivial.

I recognize motorcycling is not for everyone. Statistics show that about 2% of US drivers ride motorcycles. For some being in the elements is not comfort. The increased risk is worrisome. The intense focus of mind and body is too exhausting. I understand all that. What's more I feel I am part of an exclusive community of riders. Perhaps that's why most motorcyclists always wave to each other when meeting on the road. (Although motorcycle gangs and motorcycle cops do not wave.)

Have I answered the question why I ride? Sort of. Is it the thought that nothing ventured equals nothing gained. Maybe. Perhaps I need to swing my leg over the saddle, twist the throttle and go for a ride to ponder it some more. There's another adventure just down the road.

Riding in the mountains above Leavenworth, WA

Conditioning Yourself For A Long Motorcycle Trip

Recently I came across this quote, “When you ride a motorcycle, the entire body is under stress; all the muscles are working, and the nervous system is very much activated with the proprioceptive sensors in order to keep balance and coordination.” The quote was from Dr. Vincenzo Tota, official physician of BMW Motorcycle elite racing team. Well, I'm not on any motorcycle racing team but I can identify and understand Dr. Tota's quote.

Riding on the Beartooth Highway

A motorcycle trip is an adventure. Like any adventure you've got to be in shape for it both physically and mentally or it won't be so fun. In fact, it could be dangerous. “It takes a lot of focus to ride a bike safely, so doing it for hours can be exhausting.” (Wes Siler from RideApart motorcycling website) Motorcycling is not like driving a car. Rather it requires much more concentration, effort and protection. Concentration in watching out for other vehicles - you've got to be alert. Concentration in the driving the bike - leaning on corners, acceleration and braking and watching out for hazards (oil, gravel, potholes, debris, etc.). Effort in gripping the handlebars, maintaining balance, staying alert, and sitting for long periods with little movement. And finally, protection. Since your are out in the weather you've got to protect yourself from heat, cold, wind, bugs, rocks, and heaven forbid a crash. All of these things are mitigated by how physically fit you are.

For motorcycling you want a strong core particularly your neck, shoulders, back and abdomen. Doing core strengthening exercises two or three times a week at least three or four months prior to a trip will make a world of difference. Muscle fatigue will affect your concentration and how well you are protected. It's been medically proven that lifting weights and cardiovascular fitness improves mental acuity and concentration. Professional athletes recognize being in shape will keep you sharp and help prevent injury. Motorcycling is no different.

I am no fitness trainer or expert. My motorcycle fitness training program works for me. For others I recommend discussing a training program with a trainer or doctor first. My program is a combination of weight training at a gym using weight machines and walking. I alternate each day with going to the gym or walking. My gym routine uses 14 different weight machines or routines and takes about an hour. I work on core muscles, shoulders and arms - particularly triceps, and legs - quads and gluts. When I use the various weight machines I work each repetition slowly and work to fail on the 7th through 9th repetition - it's called the "super slow method." It's exhausting but it works - at least for me. At the end of my workout I am tired and by doing it slow get a cardiovascular workout too. For more information on the "super slow method" of weight training check out this link: http://www.webmd.com/men/features/want-more-strength-slow-down.

In addition to the weight training, I do a series of "do it at home" exercises that help strengthen my core.muscles. Check out the excellent Mayo Clinic slideshow at:  http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/fitness/multimedia/core-strength/sls-20076575. Some of these core building exercises are just as or even more challenging than working out at the gym.

Besides weight training at the gym I also do various stretches and balance exercises like lunges and standing on the Bosu Ball for at least 5 minutes or more. This helps build balance which is so important in motorcycling. The Mayo Clinic also has an excellent slide show on building balance (http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/fitness/multimedia/balance-exercises/sls-20076853).

When I'm not doing weights or at the gym, I walk. I try to walk between 12-20 miles per week. I walk on varied terrain (gravel and rocky trails and hills) to work on balance and endurance. While walking I work hard to maintain a proper posture to build muscle for my abdomen, back and neck. I vary my walking speed so as not to tire out but get a good distance in and a cardiovascular workout. Walking also helps on building concentration and learning how to relax while doing something. While walking I often think about my packing lists or other things about the upcoming trip. Walking is a great escape from stress.

Being in shape for a trip is important whether for motorcycling, backpacking, or any trip. By being physically fit you will be mentally fit and enjoy the adventure all the more. It's April and not too late to start training for your summer adventures.

Motorcycle Packing

Motorcycle camping is akin to "two-wheeled backpacking." That is you can't carry a lot of gear, it can't weigh too much, and it can't be bulky. You've got to fit everything you need and want to take into a few small luggage cases. This includes, tent, sleeping bag, clothing - riding gear and leisure wear, cooking gear and utensils including a stove, sundries, first aid kit, tools, and some other odds and ends. In other words, you got to pack a lot of stuff carefully and smartly.

My 2006 BMW R1200RT fully packed

My 2006 BMW R1200RT has three cases or luggage cases - two side cases (panniers) and one top case. The side cases are stock and hold about 27.5 liters each. The top case holds 28 liters. Liters? Since it is a European motorcycle the storage space is measured in cubic liters not cubic inches. Roughly each pannier size is 12" x 16" x 8.75" or 27.5 (cubic) liters. Typically I also carry a 89 L (liter) bag that measures 15.7" x 28" x 15.7" made by Ortlieb. It's a great heavy duty, tough, compressible and water tight bag. All of these bags add up to 172 L carrying capacity. The panniers are lockable and water tight. The 89 L "Ortlieb" bag is water tight but not lockable. Last year I had another bag (blue waterproof Cabelas) which helped carry a bulky sleeping pad, but I won't need that this year.

The total weight carrying capacity (payload) of my R1200RT is 520 pounds which includes me - the rider. If you subtract the rider weight (including riding gear which can be heavy because of the body armor protection) the allowable weight is less than 240 lbs. However that would mean the bike would be at the maximum load. The more weight you carry the poorer motorcycle performance and lower gas mileage. So pack less and lighter for better performance. I'm sure that 240 lbs. of stuff would be bigger than 172 L unless I was carrying rocks or lead. Next I need to consider how the weight and bulk of stuff is evenly distributed on the bike. If all the heavy stuff is packed on one side it will affect riding. Last year on another trip I was forced to repack my gear after the second night on the road because my bike was so unbalanced. The bike always wanted to drift to the left. After re-packing the rest of the ride was so much more enjoyable.

It is important that gear be securely attached to the bike (also making sure straps or loose ends don't get caught in any moving parts). Nothing worse than having something blow off when riding and/or having a strap get caught in the wheel - that would ruin your day and maybe even the whole trip. You also don't want to "over stuff" a pannier which may cause a hinge to become sprung and maybe bust open while riding finding your stuff spread all over the road. On one motorcycle trip a few years ago the right pannier fell off the bike (not the R1200RT but my F800GS) while traveling down the road. Stuff was strewn all over the road. Luckily no one following me hit the pannier or any of my stuff - that could've caused an accident. Turned out the pannier attachment mechanism was faulty. I then used a "zip-tie" to secure the pannier to it the bike so it wouldn't fall off again. When I got home I had the pannier replaced.

Stuart on his Goldwing

My riding partner Stuart has a beautiful Honda GL1800 or Goldwing. His bike has two panniers and a top case too. He also has a small suitcase mounted to a luggage rack on his top case. His payload weight and capacity of his Goldwing are greater than my bike. Stuart is the kind of guy that likes to pack a lot of stuff. Last year he brought fishing waders, fishing pole, wading boots, fishing gear, a hatchet and lots of other stuff.  This year his wife will come along riding on the bike with him. He'll be carrying gear for two people - rider and passenger. As a result this year he is looking to tow a small one wheeled trailer behind his bike to carry all his and his wife's gear.

Now that I know the size and weight capacity I need to determine what to pack. There are four stuff categories - bike (tools, spares, etc.), camping (tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, etc.), personal (clothes, sundries, towel, etc.) and extras (GPS, knife, camera, cellphone, etc.). As the trip date approaches closer to two months or so I'll start making detailed and specific lists of gear for each category. The big important items are easy to remember, it's the little things that you miss or wish you had packed. I will edit and re-edit my various gear lists right up until I leave.

Riding clothes are: heavy jacket, mesh jacket (spare), riding pants, riding boots, silk glove liners, warm weather gloves, cold weather gloves, skull cap, and long underwear. I'm pretty frugal at packing "leisure" (after riding) clothes: one pair of pants that can also be used as shorts. 2-3 pieces of underwear (socks and briefs) and 2 T-shirts, one sweatshirt, wool hat, and water moccasins. Each night (when not raining or wet) after riding I wash, rinse and dry one set of underwear and T-shirts. That way I'll always have fresh clothes. Other personal items I bring are small towel, bath kit (toothbrush, soap, toothpaste, etc.), first aid kit, and necessary medicine, Camping gear is tent, ground cloth, cot, collapsible chair, cook kit (pots, cups, and plates), eating utensils, stove, stove fuel, lighter, lantern, water container, water filter, soap, and sponge. Extras generally consist of GPS, knife, cup, small flask of whisky, a book, sketch/note pad, pen, tablet, cellphone, chargers, solar panel, sunglasses, and hat. Last year I had a limited amount of room to carry just a few groceries.

Keeping in mind even weight distribution I have developed a method to my packing. Gear will be weighed and sorted to the appropriate luggage bag. I pack clothes in the left pannier. Extras and sundries in the right pannier. Cooking gear, stove, lantern, some tools and extras in the top case. And finally, the big big bulky stuff like sleeping bag, tent, a collapsible chair, tarp, stove fuel, spare water, and other extras in the large 49 L bag. This bag is mounted on a rack that is mounted behind me and in front of the top case. To test and confirm my packing "system" I might start test packing well before the start of the trip the various luggage with stuff to understand how it safely and securely it all packs together.

The one nice result of my systematic packing is that setting up camp and breaking down camp is easier when you understand what and where gear is packed. Instead of looking for stuff or wondering where it goes having a system makes camping easier. It is important to remember to bring only what you will need. If you must have something you can always stop and buy it. Then the problem is where to safely and securely pack it.

Getting a good night's rest

One of the most important things in life especially when on a motorcycle trip is getting a good night's rest. If you are not fully rested and tired the chances for an accident increase. I like to camp versus staying in a motel. So that means sleeping on the ground. I'm too old to be sleeping on the ground. Foam pads just are not thick enough to support me and I still feel the hard ground. A thicker foam pad would work but then it's too bulky to carry on a motorcycle. Air mattresses are just too problematic. You got to blow them up and they always seem to leak. What I discovered are "ThermaRest Ultra Lite and ThermaRest Mesh Cots." Oh my these cots provide you a great night's sleep, just like if you were sleeping on a mattress.

Last year after sleeping two nights on the ground with my old 40+ year old ThermaRest Self-Inflating Foam Pad I was sore and didn't sleep well. So when I got to Missoula, Montana and an REI store I invested in the ThermaRest Ultra Lite Cot. The result was for the rest of the trip (15 nights camping) I slept great. Didn't matter if the ground was bumpy with rocks and roots or filled with pine cones and/or gravel. The result was the same - a great night's sleep. The only downside is that the cot can be noisy as your body moves on the vinyl cot material.

The cot base is either a fabric mesh or ultra light vinyl. On either side of the cot base an aluminum pole is inserted lengthwise. Then six sets of struts are constructed. Each strut has two plastic 4" rings connected by aluminum tubing. The 3rd and 4th sets of struts are double tubed and the tubes are crossed to add extra support around your waist where it is needed. The struts are then connected to the aluminum poles running down either side of the cot.  This pulls the cot base very taught and elevates the cot base 4" off the ground. Each cot is over 6 feet long. The mesh cot is 26" wide whereas the vinyl cot is 24" wide. It takes about 5-10 minutes to assemble a cot and about the same amount of time for disassembly. Properly folded the cot, aluminum tubes and plastic rings fit into a small 4" by 12" cylindrical stuff sack. The weight is just about 1.5 pounds. This is great for limited motorcycle gear storage. Unfortunately they're not cheap, costing about $225.

Another potential downside to using the cots is the wear and tear on your tent floor. Depending on what type of ground you are on the cot legs (rings) could create excessive wear on your expensive tent floor. As a result I often put the cot together first and then situate the tent on top of the cot. The cot is beneath the tent. This will keep you dry too if it rains. Remember the cot elevates you 4" above the ground. And, the cot will not create wear on your tent floor.

Summary.
The "ThermaRest Ultra Lite and ThermaRest Mesh Cots." are a great investment if you plan on camping and tired of a poor night's sleep. They're light weight, pack easy, easy to assemble/disassemble, and offer great sleeping comfort.

Planning VS Spontaneity

I recently read an opinion article which author wrote about "the Magic of the Road - that special thing that happens to us when we step outside the constraints of everyday life and let those extraordinary synchronicities happen to us." I thought long and hard about all the pre-planning I was doing for the 2015 DirtBag Rally (DBR) II trip and would there be spontaneity? To go a place or do an activity not planned for. The trip route and spreadsheet are pretty detailed. The reality is I'll find out when I get there.

Wonderland Cave, South Dakota

Last year's epic 2014 Dirt Bag Rally had lots of unplanned surprises - changes in routes, new destinations, different places to eat, and unplanned things to do. The visit to Wonderland Cave which was definitely a 2014 DBR highlight was completely unplanned and spontaneous. We saw the sign along the road and went to check it out. I'm glad we did.

In retrospect the pre-planning provided an outline for us to follow with some major highlights. A few locations the pre-planned and subsequently reserved campsites were great, otherwise we would have had to drive farther and been frustrated. In fact our route plan would have changed drastically. Some places like popular National Parks (Yellowstone) you can't expect to show up late in the day and find a campsite. In fact, campsites are often booked months in advance. Also knowing the route and services along the route helped in making changes. For example we decided to meet in Rapid City, SD a day early. By knowing the route I was able to know to get gas, although I didn't need it, prior to driving particularly long stretch that offered no fuel. I also stayed in two different places at the last minute because camping just wasn't going to work because of the weather. In fact having the pre-planned route helped me determine good and successful alternatives. The bottom line was that the 2014 DBR was a fun and a huge success.

Somewhere in the Cascades

There's a romantic notion about "flipping a coin" at each intersection - heads for turning left and tails for turning right. The magic of the road luring you ever farther away from any kind of plan and ever farther away from it all. The few times that I've done that have had consequences. Once we (my wife and I) had to spend the night in the woods completely unprepared because we went too far, it got dark, and dangerous. Although we survived fine, it was not without some concerns. As a result, the reality I believe is that you are better off having a general outline and plan of where you are headed, what to expect, and some waypoints. It's just not realistic or safe to leave your route to chance. A safety tip is to leave an itinerary with friends or family so they know where you might be. The flip of a coin offers little to no itinerary and as result much less safety. It's not so romantic or idyllic when you're in trouble.

Being spontaneous is knowing when, with little or minimal risk, to change plans and do something different. I will agree that is fun. But like reading a good book, as you get deeper into the story the plot thickens and you yearn for what's next. You follow the pre-planned outline but you make the adventure happen moment by moment.

The real challenge of the 2015 DBR II is that I've planned too much. There's only so much you can accomplish in one day without getting tired or running out of daylight. So the spontaneity for the DBR II is going to be choosing what to see based on time, energy, and desire. A forced 3,700 mile ride to see everything is going to be grueling. I'm not into grueling, rather in to "quality not quantity." So this year's DBR II Rally will be a mix of planned and spontaneous events, or "...let those extraordinary synchronicities happen to us."

Keeping Things Charged While On The Road

Most of today's important devices such as cellphones, tablets, cameras, radios, and more require electricity to keep their batteries charged. When you're on the road and camping that can be problematic. How to keep all those device batteries fully charged becomes a real challenge. One alternative is to stay in a motel quite often. Another alternative is to make sure you access one or more electrical outlets wherever you stop - restaurants, rest areas, grocery or retail stores. Unfortunately that can be awkward, inconvenient, and hit-and-miss. There is another viable alternative that is easy, reliable and convenient.

Goal Zero Nomad 7 and Guide 10 Plus

I have the following devices which require near daily charging, Android tablet, smartphone, GoPro camera, and Bluetooth helmet communication system. My solution to keep these items fully charged is a 12V DC charger that is from my motorcycle and a Goal Zero solar panel and battery pack. Goal Zero makes a variety of battery packs and solar panels for a variety of uses. Several of Goal Zero's solar kits are useful for motorcycling because of their size and weight. I use the Goal Zero Nomad 7 solar panel and Guide 10 Plus battery pack.

Solar panel on bike

The solar panel when opened fits almost perfectly beneath the clear plastic top of most tank bags. The size when opened is 9" x 17". The solar panel can also be folded in half when not used. The Nomad 7 solar panel has a USB port and another 12V DC plug which fits many different devices. I typically connect the Guide 10 Plus battery pack to the Nomad 7 solar panel during the day to keep the battery pack charged. Then when at camp I will charge other devices from the battery pack as needed. I keep my cell phone and tablet charged using the bike's 12V DC during the day using a two port cigarette lighter power cord. One cord for the tablet and one for my smartphone. Both fit neatly in my tank bag while riding. I run the cords from the power port through a small zippered opening on my tank bag. I may also during a riding break connect the solar panel directly to another device to charge while I'm riding.

When I am camped for the day I place the solar panel in a

Charging using the Guide 10 Plus

sunny spot and may charge my GoPro or other devices directly. The Guide 10 Plus battery pack has enough energy stored for at least 2 charges for my GoPro; or, a 25% boost for my tablet; or, one charge for a smartphone.  It doesn't have enough power to charge a laptop though. The Guide 10 Plus battery pack has a USB port and a micro USB port on it for charging devices. It also has a built-in LED flashlight. Typically the battery pack only takes 3 hours (full sun) to 6 hours (partial sun) from the solar panel to be fully charged. Or about 6 hours to charge it from a USB charger plugged into an electrical outlet. The Guide 10 Plus uses four special NiMH AA rechargeable batteries which Goal Zero says are good for about 500 charging cycles. I rarely take the batteries out and use them in other devices like a flashlight. Although I could if needed.

The solar panel and battery pack will be great for this summer's epic ride to Colorado and Utah because we will be riding in the desert southwest. As a result I'm not too worried about not having enough sun for the solar panel. In fact, I will probably bring along a portable hand held fan to help keep me cool. I'll use the Goal Zero system to keep the batteries charged.

Goal Zero (www.goalzero.com) makes many different solar panel and battery pack systems. From the Switch 8 to the Venture 30 including the Guide 10 Plus are light and compact enough for motorcycling. These battery packs can use the Nomad 7 solar panel. Products such as their Sherpa 50 to the Yeti 1250 are too big and bulky for motorcycling. The Venture 30 is water resistant and has enough capacity to charge a laptop. For me the limiting factor is the size of the solar panel. The Nomad 13 solar panel is the next size up from the Nomad 7 but it's much larger at 10.5" x 24" which is too big for a tank bag but could be mounted atop a pannier if desired.

MSRP for the Nomad 7 solar panel and Guide 10 Plus is $120. $170 for the Venture 30 and the Nomad 7. You can find Goal Zero products at REI and at Costco.

By using the Goal Zero solar panel and battery pack along with the bike's 12V DC system I keep all my devices fully charged while on the road. I save on buying batteries which is good for my wallet and the environment. I also use it when traveling by car, or boating, or canoeing. It's great whenever you need to power electronic when out and about.